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redoctane afterburner quit working... help if you can

 
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eXcelon969  





Joined: 26 Sep 2006
Posts: 1564
Location: Phoenix, AZ

PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 7:23 pm    Post subject: redoctane afterburner quit working... help if you can Reply with quote

the other day my up arrow and the B/X button just stopped working mid-game. all the others work fine.

i figured it was a bad control box (i've had the pad though for almost 5 months)

the next day, to continue my workout i put the game on event mode (no fail) and just played as tho the up arrow worked, failing each song of course.

then 1/2way through the session the up arrow started registering a bit. then the B/X button worked. but as soon as the up arrow went away, the B/X button went away too. This leads me to believe they are somehow tied together.

So I have an intermittent working up arrow and b/x button. I have taken the panels off and nothing seems out of place, panels are not bowed in or anything. In fact I just really started using this thing a month ago.

Redoctane has not responded to any email or phone calls. Am I just screwed here? Anyone else with similar things happen? i know it's a longshot but i feel i have no recourse as my warranty is up. I'm willing to try anything!
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Tsuteto  





Joined: 23 Nov 2006
Posts: 100

PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's probably a point that the wires are interfering with each other or are somewhat severed. I have no idea what the inside of an Afterburner looks like, but if you can follow both the cords of the non-functioning panels, you should be able to find your problem.

I would, however, try waiting another day or two to get a reply from RedOctane.
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eXcelon969  





Joined: 26 Sep 2006
Posts: 1564
Location: Phoenix, AZ

PostPosted: Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks, unfortunately there are 2 layers of wood that make up the pad and the wires are run underneath the top layer (no way to open it up) and they just pop through where they need to touch the contact sensors.

i'm hoping it's just a bad control box.... i dont see how i could have even moved/broken anything inside the pad itself
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Tsuteto  





Joined: 23 Nov 2006
Posts: 100

PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 3:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

All I know is my SG, while playing GH III for the PC through the USB adaptor (wireless PS2 version SG) had stopped working with the strum, and checking it in Notepad the up strum was routed to the whammy, and the down strum and the whammy both didn't work. It was odd, but it fixed itself after I opened it up.

Best thing to do is wait for RedOctane to reply then, I guess. Unless you're REALLY ambitious XP
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eXcelon969  





Joined: 26 Sep 2006
Posts: 1564
Location: Phoenix, AZ

PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 10:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

apparently they did and gmail hid it inside a 'conversation' thing it groups emails by. they actually responded the same day i emailed them.

they said cause it's out of warranty they'd offer to sell me a new one for 150 shipped.

i guess i gotta do it. better than 350 minimum for a cobalt flux.
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Archi  





Joined: 19 Aug 2006
Posts: 36

PostPosted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

eXcelon969 wrote:
i guess i gotta do it. better than 350 minimum for a cobalt flux.


Not really-- Afterburners are pieces of shit pretty much no matter how you slice it. Red Octane IGNITION pads (the fucking soft ones) are better home mats than afterburners. I can say from experience that even if it's more expensive to get a Flux, it's better to spend more money on something that doesn't suck. I actually would recommend the Blueshark from MyMyBox, though, over the Flux, for several reasons.

For starters, the most accurate reproduction of an arcade platform on the market right now. While the recession isn't exactly like what you have at the arcade, it's at least recessed-- fluxes aren't, unless you pay extra for the arcade mod (which I've read doesn't feel arcade like, at all). The type of sensors used in Bluesharks is also superior-- unlike the Afterburner and every other home pad that I'm aware of, the Blueshark doesn't use 'tape-switch' sensors, with panels that have to bend in to complete the circuit-- the sensors in Blueshark pads are arcade-style, pressure sensitive sensors, and it makes a WORLD of difference.

If you plan on playing anything above a 9 with proper technique that isn't going to fuck you over if you ever get to play on an actual machine, it's just not going to be as viable on an Afterburner or Cobalt Flux, or any of the numerous other home metal pads out there. If you're a casual player and you don't care about passing 10's and up, or how many greats/excellents/etc. you get, I guess I can see the Afterburner being a more attractive choice-- but honestly, my Blueshark was worth every cent. For how much more it costs, you're honestly getting a fucking hell of a deal-- the difference in quality is just... insane.

Sorry for the huge post, but I feel a need to voice my dissatisfaction with Afterburners-- my X button has similar problems, and my up arrow had stopped registering hits literally within a month of play. Thing just isn't made for playing 12's and stuff on ITG...
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felixdaman18  





Joined: 27 Jun 2008
Posts: 18

PostPosted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 2:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

its cuz redoctane sucks
the sg gets a broken whammy(u can fix it with a rubber band)
the gh80s guitar gets a broken whammy(still works but it whammys slower)
the les paul gets a broken whammy(i went to eb games and the whammy wasnt working)
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Squirrel  





Joined: 27 Jul 2006
Posts: 4828
Location: Wyano, PA (Come visit! My gameroom is always open.)

PostPosted: Tue Apr 24, 2012 1:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

YAY for necros!

If you still have the pad, the wires are soldered to each of the corner connectors inside of the arrow. Those can get brittle and come off. I redid all my wiring inside of the pad, when I modified it to be a lot more sensitive.

I'd say that this thing is as close to a cheap metal pad to the arcade, when modified. I took aluminum foil and made 15 layers of the same size square as what's under the pad. I then taped all around the area, the last 1/4 inch or so, with duct tape as it was a little too sensitive. I can barely tap on the arrow now, and it registers.

If you don't think you can fix it and if you still have it, I am looking for a second pad, and wouldn't mind taking it off of your hands.

I had no idea RO closed up, I finally have room for two pads, and a permanent setup.. :/
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addseo1119  





Joined: 21 Apr 2015
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Mon May 11, 2015 6:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

There's probably a point that the wires are interfering with each other or are somewhat severed.
sbo
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