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The Un-Official Fix Your Console thread (Check the OP first)
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Squirrel  





Joined: 27 Jul 2006
Posts: 4828
Location: Wyano, PA (Come visit! My gameroom is always open.)

PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 10:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright! I got my supergun started!



There's the connector itself. Here comes the board!



That board, when turned on, is the entire game of TMNT. It has everything, the cpu, the audio driver, the game itself, EVERYTHING, is on this board. Give it power, and it plays.

Now, how to give it power... well my weapon of choice is... a Pentium 4 power supply! You can use one of these by doing the following: Ground the green wire, so when you plug it in, it thinks that the power supply is on. When you turn on your computer, it connects these two pins, turns on the power supply, computer works. I then found +5v, +12v and -5v (only on older power supplies), and soldered them to the corresponding wires on the power supply.



What you are looking at, is a working TMNT. It turns on, the speaker is wired up (All early jamma arcade games are mono). No video driver yet (that alone is $75), but you can hear it yell COWABUNGA when you ground out the coin insert slot (aka simulating inserting a coin).

What is next, is to make the controller ports, and the controllers. I decided to modify 4 Sega genesis controllers for this project. This way, if I decide to get, X-Men, I can make the appropriate cables for players 3 and 4, and we can use the same controllers. I will be modding the controllers to use direct connections, just like how the arcade likes it. Sega decided to use a microchip to control the board. Unfortunately, we need direct connections. So, the idea is to cut all the traces going to the microchip, then doing the hard wiring myself.

10/20/09: Player 1 is done being wired up, player 2 is halfway done. Asked Scott for more serial cables for players 3 and 4. I am almost able to afford the video converter. After player 2 is done, I will start hacking controllers. EDIT: Player 2 is done! Hacking controllers is next!



This is the starting of wiring up player 1. Its pretty simple, trace the pin, twist and solder to the jamma harness.



Player 1 is done!



Both players are done!

10/21/09: Buttons work on the Sega Genesis controller. The wires are just too short, I need to make extensions for everything, then solder those. Its best off that way, because the wires that are soldered to the board now are way too flimsy. I opted to cut the sleeve back more, and then just hot glue the cable to the controller, so it doesn't go anywhere. Controller 1 is done!



This pic is the wiring job on the controller, to make it to the pinout of the arcade.



Here's the finished controller! It may look like a normal controller, but its hacked for the arcade.

As of now, if I had the video converter to display the arcade picture onto a normal tv, this game is completely playable as one of the two turtles. I need to buy the player 3 and player 4 harness, and wire them like players 1 and 2, and I need to get the video converter. I also need to make 3 more controllers, like the one above. Then it'll be completely done.

04/05/10: Its done. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0w2unO6OHuQ

That's it for now, stay tuned!
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Last edited by Squirrel on Tue Apr 06, 2010 3:20 pm; edited 5 times in total
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this1neguy  





Joined: 19 Aug 2007
Posts: 5444
Location: Flint, MI

PostPosted: Tue Jan 20, 2009 10:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I called M$ and they said to ship my brick to their repair center in Texas at my own expense. I bought a new one instead, paid $50 bucks...oh well.
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Squirrel  





Joined: 27 Jul 2006
Posts: 4828
Location: Wyano, PA (Come visit! My gameroom is always open.)

PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 3:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

this1neguy wrote:
I called M$ and they said to ship my brick to their repair center in Texas at my own expense. I bought a new one instead, paid $50 bucks...oh well.


I tried, heh. The important thing is that it works now.
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Unpur3  





Joined: 01 Aug 2008
Posts: 1086
Location: 'near to' Manchester, England

PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2009 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh crap my 360 is currently vertical and on carpet
Thanks for the advice I wouldn't have known to move it if it wasn't for this thread
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Squirrel  





Joined: 27 Jul 2006
Posts: 4828
Location: Wyano, PA (Come visit! My gameroom is always open.)

PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 2:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unpur3 wrote:
Oh crap my 360 is currently vertical and on carpet
Thanks for the advice I wouldn't have known to move it if it wasn't for this thread


You're welcome! Spread the word, lets prevent those 360's from RRODing!
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sknysklz  





Joined: 28 May 2007
Posts: 487

PostPosted: Thu Jan 22, 2009 7:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a problem with my disc tray for my 360. It won't open unless there is a disc in which is annoying because if I forget to put a disc back in the tray everytime it closes then it takes forever for me to get the damn thing open. Any ideas on what's causing this?
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dogtownzboy1  





Joined: 24 Aug 2008
Posts: 1118
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 10:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
Go to you favorite computer store/wal-mart, and get yourself a laptop cooler. The kind that has two fans, that are powered by a USB, that blow onto the laptop. Now, put your 360 on it VERTICALLY, over both fans.

2/3 of the air holes, are on the bottom of the 360. By doing this, you're doing what every gaming pc needs: air intake. The board won't warp anymore, the video card ram chips won't desolder off, and you won't get cold solder joints.


I am using a basic portable fan and it blows air into the back of the 360. Will this do the same as using a Laptop Cooler?[/quote]
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Squirrel  





Joined: 27 Jul 2006
Posts: 4828
Location: Wyano, PA (Come visit! My gameroom is always open.)

PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 12:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dogtownzboy1 wrote:
Quote:
Go to you favorite computer store/wal-mart, and get yourself a laptop cooler. The kind that has two fans, that are powered by a USB, that blow onto the laptop. Now, put your 360 on it VERTICALLY, over both fans.

2/3 of the air holes, are on the bottom of the 360. By doing this, you're doing what every gaming pc needs: air intake. The board won't warp anymore, the video card ram chips won't desolder off, and you won't get cold solder joints.


I am using a basic portable fan and it blows air into the back of the 360. Will this do the same as using a Laptop Cooler?
[/quote]

Move the fan to the side. You're actually forcing the hot air back into the 360.

sknysklz wrote:
I have a problem with my disc tray for my 360. It won't open unless there is a disc in which is annoying because if I forget to put a disc back in the tray everytime it closes then it takes forever for me to get the damn thing open. Any ideas on what's causing this?


The drive is failing. Simple as that. It needs to be replaced, and you can't just buy a drive to replace it, you have to flash it with the old drive's signature. Its the same as flashing an xbox 360 to play backups, except with the second firmware, its not a hacked firmware, its the original firmware of the new drive. I cannot explain how to do it due to piracy, but you can google it.
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Macaron11  





Joined: 14 Aug 2007
Posts: 2049
Location: I'm at the combination Pizza Hut and Taco Bell

PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a little bump, but my 360 broke.

I found a way to fix it, and I'd like to know why it actually works XD

1. Turn on the RROD'd console
2. Open the disc tray all the way
3. Shut the 360 off
4. Grab the disc tray and pull it out all the way
5. Turn the console back on

No red rings! I did this like 9 times already, and I'm putting a video up.
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Squirrel  





Joined: 27 Jul 2006
Posts: 4828
Location: Wyano, PA (Come visit! My gameroom is always open.)

PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 10:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My guess is, is when you pull on it, you put some kind of pressure on the shield that the heatsinks go over, therefore pushing down on the gpu heatsink, therefore making a connection from a broken solder joint.
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Macaron11  





Joined: 14 Aug 2007
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Location: I'm at the combination Pizza Hut and Taco Bell

PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 3:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Squirrel wrote:
My guess is, is when you pull on it, you put some kind of pressure on the shield that the heatsinks go over, therefore pushing down on the gpu heatsink, therefore making a connection from a broken solder joint.
That's awesome, so, do you think I should still send it in? I have a little under a month left and I don't know what to do >>

Also, fuck you 5 Gum Lush.
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xtremecarbon  





Joined: 29 Mar 2008
Posts: 3998
Location: Columbia, SC

PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 3:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok Squirrel, I've got a couple of questions for you (none of them are of DIER attention)

1. Every now and then when I try to open up my 360 tray from my controller via Open Tray function in the NXE dashboard the tray won't open. I press it manually and it opens. Sometimes this happens when I push the eject button manually; it won't open and I can open it wirelessly. I'm thinking something is sticky between the eject button, but what are your thoughts on this?

2. How can you tell when your 360 is getting really hot? Besides the hot air blowing out of it (that happens all the time) and lifting to check the bottom of the 360.
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Squirrel  





Joined: 27 Jul 2006
Posts: 4828
Location: Wyano, PA (Come visit! My gameroom is always open.)

PostPosted: Tue Feb 03, 2009 3:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

xtremecarbon wrote:
Ok Squirrel, I've got a couple of questions for you (none of them are of DIER attention)

1. Every now and then when I try to open up my 360 tray from my controller via Open Tray function in the NXE dashboard the tray won't open. I press it manually and it opens. Sometimes this happens when I push the eject button manually; it won't open and I can open it wirelessly. I'm thinking something is sticky between the eject button, but what are your thoughts on this?

2. How can you tell when your 360 is getting really hot? Besides the hot air blowing out of it (that happens all the time) and lifting to check the bottom of the 360.


1. Could be an NXE glitch. I wouldn't put it past microsoft.

2. If the fans are louder, that means that it needs to pull more air out of the system, which means that there's too much heat inside of the system. Same as a laptop fan.

Macaron11 wrote:
Squirrel wrote:
My guess is, is when you pull on it, you put some kind of pressure on the shield that the heatsinks go over, therefore pushing down on the gpu heatsink, therefore making a connection from a broken solder joint.
That's awesome, so, do you think I should still send it in? I have a little under a month left and I don't know what to do >>

Also, fuck you 5 Gum Lush.


I say, send it in. If you're that close to your warranty, send it in and get it fixed, as if its RRODing now, its just a matter of time.
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anonymous_97  





Joined: 01 Jan 1970
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 5:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Squirrel  





Joined: 27 Jul 2006
Posts: 4828
Location: Wyano, PA (Come visit! My gameroom is always open.)

PostPosted: Thu Feb 05, 2009 5:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, try cleaning the laser. If that doesn't fix it, then your laser is dying, it either needs adjusted, or sent to microsoft to be fixed. You can't just swap out the drives physically, each drive has a signature that talks to that specific xbox.
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