Drums sensitivity worse than ever

**ElementOfZero** · Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 3:59 pm Post subject: Drums sensitivity worse than ever

So, when I first got my set the orange cymbal took considerably harder hits to register notes. I ordered the cable and up'd the sensitivity and everything was fine.

Then, my red part started cross-talking with my yellow cymbal. So, I had to turn down the red's sensitivity to zero to prevent this (the best I can. it still x-talked 1:100 hard hits or so)

Now yesterday my blue started x-talking when I hit the red pad, while the yellow-red cross-talking just got worse than ever. If I hit the yellow just about to any degree it would make red talk, and if I hit red any harder than normal blue would go off. So, I hooked it back up to my computer and zeroed everything back out (all at stock 10) then tried adjusting it. But, it didn't make a single shred of difference. So, I unscrewed a couple of screws out of the red pad side (my torx driver wont reach 2 to take the entire back off ><) and put a folded piece of bubble wrap over the piezo sensor.

Well, it "worked" to some degree. Yellow hits stopped causing red to register, but even on sensitivity 20 red would only pick up between 1/3 - 1/2 my hits. I took out the piece of bubble wrap and set everything like the way I had to originally (orange up a little, red down) and now it's just like playing the waiting game for something to fuck up again.

Does anyone have any suggestions to modify my red pad (such as my bubble wrap) that wont dramatically interfere with it's registering of direct hits?
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**HoorayItsMike** · Joined: 28 Jul 2007 Posts: 1604 Location: Ohio

I suppose this would be of the most help to you:

**ElementOfZero** · Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 12:20 am Post subject:

How did he open it with a phillips head? This guy seems iffy.
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**HoorayItsMike** · Joined: 28 Jul 2007 Posts: 1604 Location: Ohio

Just PM him or reply to him where he posted that at. It was in another thread in the Drums section talking about a similar problem that you have.
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**electronvtec** · Joined: 02 Apr 2008 Posts: 81

The back of the kit has about 15 phillips head screws keeping it together. Think of the whole thing as one big plastic clamshell. Once you get all of the screws out, the bottom just lifts off and reveals the underside of each pad. Each pad has two wires going to it - one wire is soldered to the middle of the sensor and the other wire is soldered to the outer ring of the sensor. In my case, the black wire on the red pad came off after I brushed it with my arm (trust me, I didn't even pull on the thing) and the black wire is what connects to the outer ring on the red pad. I re-soldered that connection, screwed the back of the kit back on with my phillips head screwdriver, and resumed playing.

PS - I am using the GH:WT drum kit, just FYI.

**ElementOfZero** · Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 2:30 am Post subject:

I get you guys but the entire point was sarcastic. They're not phillips, they're torx.
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**electronvtec** · Joined: 02 Apr 2008 Posts: 81

Not on the XBOX 360 WT kit, every screw is a phillips head. I say this because I don't have a torx screwdriver in the house

edit - just saw that you also have a 360, maybe they changed some kits during production? I got mine the day it came out so maybe they changed them to make this less easy to do?
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**A-Dubz** · Joined: 04 Nov 2007 Posts: 272

**ElementOfZero** · Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 10:22 pm Post subject:

Ahh, everyone's still ignoring the point. MY SET IS TORX AND MY TORX DRIVER DOESNT FIT DOWN INTO TWO OF THE HOLES. (ha, im not mad, just saying)

So I can solder it yet. I need to stop by a hardware store :\

Is there any other posts on other peoples fixes floating around? I noticed when I put my finger on a side of the piezo, the red pad starts playing some quick ass 64th(?) notes while in the studio. I'm guessing this might be the problem, although from what I can see everything looks soldered correctly.

I just dont want to start risking the integrity of the sensor like my rockband set. That got messed the fuck up.
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**purplee** · Joined: 09 Nov 2007 Posts: 238 Location: Sydney, Australia

Are you using a t10? It opened all the holes for me (360 set, all torx holes). You might want to try my fix when you finally get it open too, it worked wonders for me http://www.scorehero.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=1234730#1234730

**ElementOfZero** · Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 2:06 pm Post subject:

I finally got the back of my set open last night. The top 2 screws are a larger torx (T20, I believe) and the rest are T15 (Although a T10 driver works to open them)

My red pad's ground must have been loose inside of the foam. It's odd because even without a ground, the snare will play--but it does so with yellow. Must be some kind of back up in the circuit board so it doesn't short out all the electronics.

Anyway, I just resoldered both wires (to be safe) and set the sensitivity to 17 now. It plays pretty well. I just had some REALLLLLLY random misses on Hey Man, Nice Shot that cost me FCs, but oh well, in 1st now. Also, FCed Spiderwebs and Shiver without any problems.

SIDE NOTE: If anyone is having trouble with the batteries popping out or wireless disconnect, I used a rectangle of that black foam from under the start/select/ABXY buttons vertically below the battery compartment piece and haven't had it disconnect again.
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